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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.